Odesa Black Today
Today, Odesa Black is a fairly well‑known wine produced by several dozen Ukrainian wineries. For a more or less informed wine lover, it is almost as familiar as Ukrainian Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. However, surprisingly, just 15 years ago this purely Ukrainian grape variety was not merely unpopular: it was considered a technical varietal not worthy of attention from either Ukrainian producers or a discerning audience.
Since then, the story of Odesa Black has taken an unexpected turn, elevating it to the forefront of the most expensive grape varieties available in Ukraine. Wines made from this grape now have every chance of becoming a calling card of authentic Ukrainian winemaking.
A Brief History
The synonym for Odesa Black is Alibernet. This name comes from the combination of two classic European grape varieties: Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon—hence the derived name Alibernet.
The variety was developed at the V. Ye. Tairov Ukrainian Scientific Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking. Its breeding process took more than 20 years. The cross was carried out in 1948. In 1960, the interspecific hybrid was named Odesa Black and submitted for state variety testing. In 1971 it was zoned in the Odesa region, and in 1972 it was included in the Register of Plant Varieties of Ukraine.
As dry as these facts and dates may seem, in reality a major historical event took place—perhaps insufficiently appreciated at the time: Ukraine obtained its own grape variety. However, until the end of the century, attitudes toward Odesa Black remained dismissive—it was seen as a cheap, technical teinturier variety.
Revival and Recognition
In 2005, Kolonist Winery began producing a varietal wine from Odesa Black, and in 2021 established a special commemorative date in its honor—May 5, Odesa Black Day.
Fifteen years ago, Kolonist released its first varietal Odesa Black wine and has produced it almost every year since. Eventually, Odesa Black became a hallmark of the Ukrainian diplomatic corps. It is on Kolonist bottles that one can see the Ukrainian blue‑and‑yellow flag.
Odesa Black in the Global Context
Grape varieties similar to Odesa Black exist in virtually all winemaking countries. It is a teinturier variety. Examples include Saperavi in Georgia or Alicante Bouschet in France, which is, in fact, one of Odesa Black’s parent varieties.
Such grapes are used by winemakers to create intensely colored wines. This was especially important in Ukrainian—and previously Soviet—realities. Ukrainian and Soviet wine consumers traditionally believed that wine should be powerful and deeply colored. Agreeably, the visual assessment of red wine is extremely important for the average consumer, and if the color is not intense, it is often perceived as something “wrong”. Yet if we look at Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo, their color is completely different. That, however, reflects a more advanced level of wine understanding.
Character and Organoleptics
Odesa Black has a long lineage dating back to the 11th–12th centuries. Its main parents are ancient European French varieties with an exceptionally rich and high‑quality history. This alone suggests that Odesa Black is an aristocrat.
In terms of characteristics, it is explosive power. First and foremost, it has a vivid, saturated color. Aromatically and organoleptically, it shows overripe red berries, roasted bell pepper, overripe cherries. The wine is full‑bodied, tannic, initially aggressive. When you taste it, it feels as if it wants to overpower your will. It has a long, powerful finish that lingers for a long time.
Expert Perspective
“Odesa Black was created to make understandable wines. It was included in blends with less pigmented red grape varieties to produce a ‘typical’ red wine in the perception of the average consumer. That was the somewhat banal goal of its creation.
For a very long time, Odesa Black was treated with a certain disdain: it was only a color corrector. It was believed to have many organoleptic shortcomings. I always saw the variety’s potential and optimistically said: ‘You simply don’t know how to work with it’—like in the old joke about cooking cats.
Grapevines are living organisms: if you are inattentive to them, they will be just as inattentive to you. But times change. Winemakers gain education and experience, and they search for their own style and favorite varieties.”